Kevine
Food Systems Advisor.
When people talk about “urban food deserts,” they often mean neighborhoods where residents can’t easily buy healthy, affordable food. But in African cities, this isn’t just about how far the nearest supermarket is. It’s about who controls food supply chains, whose diets are valued, and whose choices are being limited.
As someone who believes in food sovereignty (the right of people to feed themselves and decide what food systems work best for them) I argue that tackling food deserts requires more than adding new grocery stores or importing Western supermarket models. The real solution is to strengthen community food systems and give people back control over what they eat.
Take Nairobi’s informal settlements like Kibera. Residents rely on informal kiosks and street vendors, where food is often more expensive per unit, less nutritious, and sometimes unsafe. Supermarkets exist, but they are either physically out of reach or financially inaccessible. Similarly, in Lagos, the informal food markets that sustain most households are under constant pressure from rising costs, lack of infrastructure, and government pushes to “formalize” food trade. In Johannesburg, studies show that townships have far fewer supermarkets compared to wealthier suburbs, pushing residents toward convenience stores and fast-food outlets.
These examples show that African food deserts aren’t just about distance. They are about affordability, food safety, and the growing loss of community food systems that once sustained urban families.
But many of these efforts miss the point. Supermarkets may increase food availability, but they rarely make it affordable for the poorest households. Online delivery excludes families without internet access, smartphones, or bank accounts. Corporate-driven solutions risk locking communities into dependency.
The most promising work comes from community-led projects:
The way forward is not to wait for corporations or governments to “fix” the problem from above. It is to strengthen food sovereignty from the ground up - through community markets, urban agriculture, and policies that support people’s ability to feed themselves.
Food deserts will not be solved by charity or supermarkets. They will be solved when African communities reclaim their right to food and make choices free from outside control. This is not just about hunger; it’s about dignity, justice, and self-determination.
As someone who believes in food sovereignty (the right of people to feed themselves and decide what food systems work best for them) I argue that tackling food deserts requires more than adding new grocery stores or importing Western supermarket models. The real solution is to strengthen community food systems and give people back control over what they eat.
Food Deserts in African Cities
In the U.S., food deserts are often described as low-income neighborhoods without supermarkets. In Sub-Saharan Africa, the situation looks different. Cities like Nairobi, Lagos, and Johannesburg are full of food vendors and markets, yet millions of people still struggle to access safe, nutritious, and affordable food.Take Nairobi’s informal settlements like Kibera. Residents rely on informal kiosks and street vendors, where food is often more expensive per unit, less nutritious, and sometimes unsafe. Supermarkets exist, but they are either physically out of reach or financially inaccessible. Similarly, in Lagos, the informal food markets that sustain most households are under constant pressure from rising costs, lack of infrastructure, and government pushes to “formalize” food trade. In Johannesburg, studies show that townships have far fewer supermarkets compared to wealthier suburbs, pushing residents toward convenience stores and fast-food outlets.
These examples show that African food deserts aren’t just about distance. They are about affordability, food safety, and the growing loss of community food systems that once sustained urban families.
Impacts on Health, Economy, and Dignity
Food deserts don’t just affect stomachs; they affect entire communities.- Health impacts: In South Africa, the rising tide of obesity, diabetes, and hypertension is tied to cheap, processed foods dominating township diets. In Nairobi, many households spend more than half their income on food yet remain nutritionally deprived.
- Economic impacts: When local markets are sidelined in favor of large retail chains, money flows out of the community instead of circulating within it. Jobs and small businesses disappear.
- Social impacts: When people can’t access the foods that are part of their culture (like indigenous grains, vegetables, or traditional recipes) there is a deeper loss: a loss of identity and food dignity.
Why Current Interventions Fall Short
Governments and private companies have tried different solutions. Some give tax breaks to supermarkets to set up in low-income areas. Others experiment with online grocery delivery. In South Africa, there are programs to promote healthier school meals. In Kenya, NGOs run urban farming projects in informal settlements.But many of these efforts miss the point. Supermarkets may increase food availability, but they rarely make it affordable for the poorest households. Online delivery excludes families without internet access, smartphones, or bank accounts. Corporate-driven solutions risk locking communities into dependency.
The most promising work comes from community-led projects:
- In Nairobi, urban farms in Mathare provide vegetables directly to households, cutting costs and improving nutrition.
- In Cape Town, community food gardens are helping families grow their own produce while teaching food literacy.
- In Enugu, women’s cooperatives are building stronger informal networks to share and sell affordable local produce.
Food Sovereignty as the Way Forward
If we want to solve the problem of food deserts in Africa, we need to go beyond “access” and focus on sovereignty. That means:- Protecting informal markets that already feed most urban Africans instead of dismantling them.
- Expanding urban and peri-urban farming so city residents can grow food for themselves and their neighbors.
- Investing in food literacy programs that revive knowledge of traditional, nutritious diets rather than replacing them with imported “healthy” options.
- Regulating corporate expansion so multinational chains don’t wipe out small traders and later leave communities stranded.
- Integrating food into city planning, ensuring transport, housing, and health systems support - not undermine - food access.
Food Deserts Are About Power, Not Distance
Food deserts in African cities are not just about how far a supermarket is. They are about power - who decides what food is available, who profits from it, and whose culture counts.The way forward is not to wait for corporations or governments to “fix” the problem from above. It is to strengthen food sovereignty from the ground up - through community markets, urban agriculture, and policies that support people’s ability to feed themselves.
Food deserts will not be solved by charity or supermarkets. They will be solved when African communities reclaim their right to food and make choices free from outside control. This is not just about hunger; it’s about dignity, justice, and self-determination.